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Articles in order of posting, most recent first:

Getting back on the horse
by Thomas Dillon

'Code words' provide shortcut
to understanding foreign cultures

by Boyé L. De Mente

Japanese scientists make automated translation breakthrough
by Boyé L. De Mente

All change in Japan
by Matthew MacLachlan

In one remote corner of Japan,
Emperor still considered a god

by Ronald E. Yates

Lafcadio Hearn, rolling stone
who gathered moss in Japan
by David Appleyard

Who is that masked woman?
by Thomas Dillon

The myopic state we're in
by Debito Arudou

Job-hopping losing dishonor in Japan
by Ronald E. Yates

The food we choose to eat: Japan's 'food paranoia'
keeps high-quality produce off the menu

by Duco Delgorge

The high cost of children — don't kid yourself
by Thomas Dillon

Social responsibility: the buzz word nobody gets
by Noriko Hama

Japanese system stifles foreign scientific talent
by Peter Osborne

Seiza — the traditional Japanese sitting posture
by Chyi Lee

NHK — the way it should be
by Thomas Dillon

The lowdown on the cost of 'doing Japan'
by Boyé L. De Mente

Japan remains safe haven for foreign travelers
by Boyé L. De Mente

Kidnapped / Of separations & kidnappings
by Bill Stonehill

Speaking a different language
by Phillip Howe

Loss of the kimono a tragedy
by Bill Stonehill

The extraordinary merits of modern-day karate
by Boyé L. De Mente

A train chock full o' nuts
by Thomas Dillon

'Secret' dolphin slaughter defies protests
by Boyd Harnell

Weather ...for better or worse
by Boyé L. De Mente

Open debate under threat in Japan
by Sheila A. Smith & Brad Glosserman

Hospital death exposes 'tip of malpractice iceberg'
by David McNeill

Tropical Tokyo and the green clams
by Bill Stonehill

Having a baby in Shimane
by Sherry Nakanishi

JAPAN'S HARD LINE: Never give an inch to China
by Gregory Clark

Groping for answers on gropers
by Thomas Dillon

In Japan, fast food is fast becoming
a health hazard
by Ronald E. Yates

When cultures clash — 'sizing' up  the opposition
by Thomas Dillon

The importance of questioning fearlessly
and answering honestly
by Noriko Hama

What not to do in Japan: die
by Thomas Dillon

The iron 'Silk Road'
by Bill Stonehill

Archaeology and racism
by Bill Stonehill

Tokyoites rush to 'commuting hell'
by Ronald E. Yates

Japan's rebels rare, but hard-core
by Ronald E. Yates

Foreigners in Japan say openness all talk
by Ronald E. Yates

Japan's Takarazuka Theater makes women,
and men, of talented girls
by Ronald E. Yates

Japan's 'returnees' face rejection,
find that coming home isn't easy
by Ronald E. Yates

English-language deficit handicaps Japan
by Jean-Pierre Lehmann

The Japanese art of losing to win (1965/2005)
by Boyé L. De Mente

BBC Japan comes and goes
on 'wrong' first-choice satellite
by David Appleyard

Two-wheeler paradise
by Bill Stonehill

A sham anti-smoking program
by Kiroku Hanai

Scales of justice
by Barry Brophy

Mama-san's babies
by Sarah Dale

Who's Alberto Fujimori and what's
he doing sleeping on my couch?
by Bill Stonehill

Organized crime and the forest
by Lance Olsen

Monks fight 'progress' in old city
by Ronald E. Yates

Plethora of barriers narrows
food choices for Japanese

by Duco Delgorge

McEnglish for the masses
by David McNeill

Stranger in a Japanese land
by Bill Stonehill

Our beef with Japan
by Mindy Kotler

Living longer, divorcing later:
The Japanese silver divorce phenomenon

by J. Sean Curtin

EDUCATIONAL REFORM:  Lots of debate, little action
by Gregory Clark

Selling sex in a glass!
by Boyé L. De Mente

Crime and the U.S. servicemen in Okinawa
by Bill Stonehill

Foreigners find divorce means sayonara to kids
by Doug Struck and Sachiko Sakamaki

Why foreign men like Japan (It's the girls!)
by Boyé L. De Mente

Mountains and deserts
by Bill Stonehill

Longtime expatriates all play 'Survivor'
by Thomas Dillon

Home-buyers in Japan up against a stacked deck
by Mark Magnier

Japan, EU and agriculture
by John de Boer

Intellectual alienation spawns hazy policy
by Jean-Pierre Lehmann

Classified ads? Forget about them
by Bill Stonehill

ALEX KERR'S VIEW Japan: A land gone to the dogs?
by Stephen Hesse

International marriages in Japan
by J. Sean Curtin

Educational reform in Japan,
or how to 'kill' children — a report
by Spencer Fancutt

The cold and the kotatsu
by Bill Stonehill

Like Japanese food? Try a spaghetti sandwich
by Bill Stonehill

'Inbred' universities dragging Japan down
by Jean-Pierre Lehmann

Noisiest nation in the world?
by Ronald E. Yates

The harsh reality of high school clubs
by Sven Holm

Law in Japan
by Bill Stonehill

It's either English or stay in the dark
by David Appleyard

Japan through English Windows
by David Appleyard

Conglomerate 'X'
by David Appleyard

When in Rome, do as Romans do?
by Toby Harward

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Longtime expatriates all play ‘Survivor’

By THOMAS DILLON

(This article, which first appeared in the Japan Times of May 31, 2003, 
 is reproduced in Eyes on Japan by kind permission of the author.)

 
It’s not reality TV. It's reality.

Yet I too am a survivor.

True, I have not been secluded on a desert island. I have not had to overcome boomerang matches, fire­making contests and knockout votes.

Instead my challenges list like this:

Struggling doggedly with another language and culture, not just for a few weeks, but for every single day of every single year, year-in and year-out . . .

Raising two kids between two lands and a pair of families separated by a wide world of differences and understanding . . .

Sweating through a boiling cost of living that overcooks even the smallest of expenditures . . .

And — perhaps the hardest task of all — watching other folks in similar situations not survive, but rather pack up their bags and head home.

I am reminded of these old friends every day, for like a true survivor I have inherited their cast-off belongings.

I sip coffee from the mug of an ex-colleague who is now who knows where in the upper Midwest. I watch videos on an ancient tape machine from a former neighbor from Texas. I gaze upon a bookshelf filled with novels that I keep claiming I will someday read, all forsaken by good buddies who exited this land long before they intended.

"What rubbish," says my wife. "You act like those people are dead. But all they are is gone."

So? And is that not death?

At a business lunch one friend tells me of another who had at last taken all he could of the stagnant Japanese economy and moved his family back to Seattle.

"No," I gasp. "He's left us? Al­ready? But he was so young!"

We toast his memory with cups of bullion as if we were at a wake and not a cheap eatery. In both our eyes reflects the ultimate question:

Who will be next?

Not that I ever planned — or even plan — to stay in Japan forever. In truth it often seems that the years have bushwhacked me, that they have accumulated unexpectedly from out of nowhere.

Yet I draw a fast and easy camaraderie with those who sit in the same expatriate boat, especially those people of the same generation or in the same line of work. It is as if we have all shared a common misadventure, one of tripping clumsily through a colorful land of overly arranged flowers, ceremonies and relationships.

It's almost as if we were family. When one of us leaves, it hurts.

Of course keeping contacted with such dearly departed has never been so easy as the present, when the shortest distance between two points lies not in a straight line but rather within some eye-blink of cyberspace.

Yet e-friends are not nearly as close as those smooshed with you in­to the same commuter train. For they no longer take the Japan challenge. They no longer . . . survive.

There is no pattern as to why these people left. There is no rhythm nor rationale for non-surviving.

Some hated every minute of being here. Others loved it so much they would speak Japanese even with fellow foreigners. Some couldn't go through a meal without rice, seaweed and something fishy. Others knew the location of every set of Golden Arches within 10 km. Some were married to the land, as so many of us are. Others just liked to flirt with it.

Whatever, they were part of the expatriate whole, which is always diminished by another absence.

"Do you ever wonder," I ask my business-lunch friend, "when your day will come? I mean, most of us go back, sooner or later. The alternative is much too permanent."

"Sure," he says. "The only problem is timing. Most people stay too long . . . or too  short. But when is just right? Once I figure that out, that's when I'll go."

He has unknowingly paraphrased Sartre. And I, knowingly, flip the remainder of the paraphrase back at him.

"Isn't it the other way around? You don't leave because it's finished. It's finished because you leave."

So he leaves — the meal, that is — as existentialism makes a rotten desert. Most of us Japan hands are waiting for something much sweeter, like a home, a job and a pension, all happily planted in a resort-type setting.

Benefits that expats cannot receive unless they first stop surviving and . . . go back.

"Sometimes I worry," I now tell my wife, "that I'm afraid to go back. That the prospect of starting over again — even in my own culture, even among my own friends and family, even in the bosom of my own hometown — is just too daunting.

"I worry that surviving here this long has changed me forever."

"No doubt it has," she answers. "No doubt after all these years you have traded away one view of reality for another. Isn't that why it's worrisome to watch others return? It makes you anxious over both settings — the one you have chosen and the one you have left behind.

"It's the same for me," she goes on. "It's the same for anyone who has embraced something different. The tighter the embrace, the harder it is to tear yourself away and glance backwards. How can others do it?"

What's left then? Except to aim ahead. When you're an expat in Japan with a long-term commitment, "Survivor" always has another episode.

"Something else I worry about," I confess to my wife, "is that so many longtime residents here turn out a trifle weird. You know what I mean?"

She smiles. "Yes, I think I do. But survivors can't be picky, can they?

"Besides," she pats my hand, "for some survivors, it may already be too late." 


©Thomas Dillon for the Japan Times 2003    All rights reserved


 

Editor's note: Sincere thanks to the author for his kind permission to republish the above article, which first appeared in his regular Japan Times column "When East Marries West". 

 

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This page last updated 2008-06-16
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